Australia Good in Australia: Part 2 of 2

Photos courtesy of Shutterfly at: http://share.shutterfly.com/osi.jsp?i=EegNXDNoxbtGPN

By: Jamie Bianchini

Pages: 9

Note: The final miles of the 1st stage of the Peace Pedalers will touch your heart enliven your travel spirit! Print this out on some used paper and read it at a leisurely pace someplace special ;)

Greetings from Baleal, Portugal where I witnessed Portugal took 2nd in the Euro 2004 Futbul Tournament for the first time in history! First World Cup 2002 and now Euro 2004; I'm hooked! Summer and surf are in full swing here as I wind down on the first part of my Portuguese language mission in preparation for Africa and beyond.

Back to Australia. We left off with me bidding farewell to my wonderful mother Mamacita who was my special guest rider for about a month in Tasmania and Victoria. I was sad to see her go and for a little while was even lonely. But that ended within a few moments after arriving Sydney from Melbourne.

I had a long list of places along Australia's famous east coast I wanted to ride and surf, and a list almost as long of places to "couch surf" (couch surfing is visiting people and staying on their couch or, in many cases, in a spare room). Sydney was my first target with a couch surfing session with Risky, a good buddy of my close friends Rama and Era in Indonesia. I took the train downtown and while building up my bike at my final destination I noticed a curious dark face watching every turn of the wrench. I turned around, smiled warmly and introduced myself. Before I knew it I had met my first friend in Sydney. Cleal is his name, and he is from Papua New Guinea living in Sydney for many years. He is an avid mountain biker and, when I invited him to ride with me up to Newcastle, his white teeth exploded from his dark skin in a smile from ear to ear. And, of course, I was grinning pretty huge as well since it was my genuine offer to play that lit up his day. I have seen a lot of smiles, but this one was special, especially since my next major destination is Africa.

He walked with me to meet Risky and the three of us, from Indonesia, Papua New Guinea, and USA all sat at a Sydney pub having a really, really cold beer in Australia. We were off to a good start.

Risky is an Indonesian college student who loves more than anything playing the bass guitar. And he can really play. His favorite music to play just happened to by one my favorite: funk and acid jazz. I was not in his posh downtown apartment for more than a few minutes when he connected one of his 7 bass guitars to his computer and was jamming away. He was not all that interested in going out, hitting the beach, or much more than music, school and sleep so we did not actually spend too much time together outside his pad.

My good buddy Andrew from New Zealand suggested I give one of his close friends Graham a ring in Sydney. Once we met up I knew why. We hit it off immediately and explored the town for some dinner and drinks one evening followed by a visit to his house to meet his roommate. He was eager to take me out to the beach surfing and extend some warm hospitality, but first I had to scratch an itch to mountain bike ride the Blue Mountains. We planned to meet up after my ride in the hills and I was excited to meet up with him again.

The Blue Mountains are just about an hour train ride from Sydney and the trails are world class, hosting many professional races. I took all my gear from Risky's place up there for freedom's sake including my tent and cooking gear as I had no idea what to expect. I got off at the stop recommend by one kind member of the Sydney mountain bike club Josh, which was at the bottom of some famous ride. Josh's excited voice the phone told me "ya gotta do that one, mate! It's a rippa!"

I wheeled my loaded single bike off the train and rode to a town where I met a jolly fella Peter at a garden shop who happily allowed me to store my panniers and random gear at the shop while I hit the trails.

I caught the next train to the beginning of the ride and met some super cool Aussies who escorted me to the trailhead. From there I could not be bothered riding at their weekend warrior pace so I took off like a bullet and the riding was indeed world class with views of the Blue Mountains in every direction. The sun was shinning, birds singing, fresh air, and fun riding. It was great to back out on the trails! The track ended with about 5KM of some of the best single track you can imagine and I hit the parking lot grinning ear to ear and adrenaline pumping in my veins.

I was not really tired after the main ride so when I saw a big burly mountain biker huffing up another trail I asked him where he was heading. His name was also Peter and he invited me to join him up to another trail. Turns out he is a retired professional rugby player and father of 3 who just got into the sport of mountain biking for his new physical release channel and really loved it. He led me to a park full of kangaroos running wild, to a perfect bluff with priceless views, and down another different single track trail. We got along super well, especially since we had tons to talk about: rugby and mountain biking, both of them I love.

Well, just so happens that the opening day of rugby in his home town was starting in about 2 hours and he invited me to check out the games with him and his buddies. We rode to the other Peter's garden shop, grabbed my gear, and rode to Peter's posh pad where we took a swim together in the pool to cool down while his lovely wife prepared some yummy sandwiches for us hungry boys. After our swim and grub, Peter must have trusted me enough to invite me to be his guest at his family's home and become the first guest to christen his unfinished guest room. No brainier, I'm in.

Peter's wife Susan drove us to the rugby pitch where game one of two was in full swing and the place was packed. Barbecue food, sunshine, cold beer, tons of testosterone filled blokes, and serious rugby. I was in heaven!

I met heaps of cool locals and, since the local team won both matches, the town was about to explode according to local intelligence. We hit the local bar where the normal rugby rituals of drinking from shoes and singing dirty songs brought back memories of my rugby days. It was a good day to be alive in this festive town indeed!

The next day I bid farewell to Peter after another amazing meal from Susan. I loaded up my steed and planned to do another ride with my friend Cleal from Papua New Guinea but got a cancellation message from him last minute. Since I was already loaded back up I decided to see what Graham was up to back down in Sydney. Turns out he was keen for a run to the beach and a surf that evening so back to Sydney I went! I met up with Cleal at the train station who was shattered he could not ride with me. I eventually met up with Graham who drove me out of the city to Newport where I would begin my trek up north to Brisbane.

Graham showed up with two boards, a phat Subaru, and was excited to hit the ocean. We met up with his roommate Michael and his lady from Austria and before we knew it we were surfing together in a pretty bay with huge cliffs with posh houses scattered about. The waves were pretty average so no big surf stories, but it was special to be escorted out of Sydney in style. We ended the night at sunset with dinner and drinks at the famous Newport Alms overlooking boats, happy Aussies beer drinkers, and families all over. Very special. Graham took me to my beach campsite right in front of our surf spot. I built up the tandem and we took an evening ride through the neighbourhood before I bid him farewell and set up my tent on the beach. I grew close with Graham quickly, without much time or deep conversation.

As always, I slept like a baby with the sound of the waves just a few meters from my tent. My destination for the day was a place called The Entrance, a 65KM ride or so where I heard there was some good surf to be found. On my ride to the ferry I saw a woman chilling out at a bus stop and stopped to invite her to hop on for a ride. Her name was Tia and she is 42 years old. She accepted the invitation with a touch of hesitation and admitted it was the first time she had been on a bike in over a decade! I heard her huffing and puffing as we tackled some of the hills, but she still managed to chat away with me and we had a blast! I was only a 10KM ride or so, but for her it was a marathon.

When we hit the ferry station I let her catch her breath before asking her how she felt. She was on fire! Her face was glowing, her smile was like ecstasy, and she was totally excited up to get back on her bike and start riding again. She was there to pick up two beautiful children at the ferry and asked me where I was heading up north. When I told her I was heading to Stuart’s Point she flipped her lid. She jumped up and down and told me that her dad Jim also lived in this small coastal town well off the tourist track and that I must stop by and see him. So I had yet another cool person to meet on my journey. I love this life!

I landed another free campsite right in front of a bunch of guys surfing but the surf was too good to convince any of them to release their precious boards and allow me to have a go. But I was having fun just watching and setting up my camp. I had a post surf chat with the guys while I relaxed in my Thermarest chair eating yummy food watching the sun go down and the stars come out.

The next day my destination was Newcastle where I would meet up with a dear friend Ali I rode with in New Zealand. Ali was the only one at school as the other two riders of the "Aussie Relay Team" from New Zealand Prue and Prue (yes, Prue 2) were out on holidays. But that did not stop Ali and I from being super excited to meet up again and she offered her pad to stay as well in Prue's room (thanks Prue!). So the ride was pretty hectic with plenty of traffic but any day in the saddle is better than a day in the office so I could not complain. I gave a ride to a 11 year old kid at my rest stop and we did a spin around the block. His first tandem ride and only the 2nd American he had ever met.

I arrived to Newcastle in time to hit the surf for a few hours with a cheap rented board. The swell had picked up and there is some very nice surf in Newcastle indeed and the locals in the water were very friendly and eager to toss me some choice waves.

After the surf I was gleaming! A 70KM ride and two hours of surf is a heck of a way to spend a Tuesday. Ali met me at a restaurant where I had already joined a crew of fun local guys for some laughs. Ali was driving a Subaru pickup truck just like Deans down in Tasmania so I loaded up the tandem in her machine and off we went to her house. I met her bouncy roommate Sarah and we enjoyed the first of many great meals together. The next day Ali had to work and Sarah gave me her car to go search for some surf. The swell had dropped significantly so I used the opportunity to relax on the beach, do some writing and meet some cool locals. After a few relaxing days in Newcastle I was able to convince Ali to ride with me up north to Nelson Bay where she worked. Turns out that my good friends Dean and Mel from Tasmania had a great friend Shelly who lived there and worked just a few steps from where Ali worked! Small world indeed.

The next morning Sarah drove Ali and I out of the city to a peaceful starting point and we were off and riding. Ali is a competitive rower of crew and has super strong legs I remembered from our fast unloaded ride in New Zealand. Her legs were just as strong on the loaded tandem and, with the tailwind behind us, we were moving along at a blistering pace.

Ali is one of the most positive, energetic, friendly women I have ever met. Her facial expressions are endless and each one makes me laugh. This morning she was just beaming with excitement and even sported the pig tails in her hair for me as I told her that was my favorite.

We picked up some fresh veggies from a fruit stand for a welcome gift for Shelly who was expecting to meet us later that morning. Just a few minutes after arriving into Nelson bay after our glorious 50KM ride we were met by a super smiley woman Shelly who was to be my guide and new great friend in Nelson Bay.

Shelly and Mel are both from Tasmania and the friendly Tassie vibe was indeed present in this woman Shelly. She had a spare room in her house with her cool roommate Matt and offered the place as long as I wanted. Considering Nelson Bay has some amazing surf, wildlife, beaches, hiking, biking and night life I knew I would be there at least three days. And I could not think of a cooler person to stay with but a fellow Aquarius free spirit like Shelly.

We hit it off right away and, since she worked only at night as a waitress, we had the days to play together. We surfed, made picnics, swam, relaxed and talked heaps about life. There was no romance, but we indeed had a strong connection and it's refreshing to meet people who you know are a good friend so far from home.

Adversity snuck in the back door and I lost my wallet, again, on Anzak day. I was just making a phone call and left my wallet at the phone booth. I had planned to leave that day but, since I had no money or ATM card, I was there to stay until the banks opened in 3 days to use my backup Visa card for some cash.

Well, if there is one day that you do not want to be riding in Australia, it would be Anzak Day. It is a national holiday honoring the veterans and it is the only day that you can legally gamble in the country. And it is traditionally a day where the men start drinking at a very early hour and bet on a game called "Two Up"; another name for Heads or Tails. Basically you put your wad of cash that you want to bet over your head and call out "heads!" or "tails!". Someone will challenge you and bet it will be the opposite. A pretty drunk guy or gal then tosses three coins in the air and if the majority is the heads or tails you choose, you win. Or, you lose. It is a site to see! The place is just crazy, and I had one of the best parties ever in Australia that day and night including dozens of guest riders. I gave a ride to 5 fully grown adults dressed in disco clothes and a family from Sudan. Again, a good day to be alive.

Shelly's roommate Matt took us out on a day of adventure the day before I left including a kite surfing lesson, sand boarding the dunes, and getting pulled behind his truck on a boogie board on the shallow water of the ocean. Fun stuff! Top that day off with snorkelling session with amazing fish, a big shark, and a sunset yoga session and you have the ingredients for a huge smiling Jamie!

Shelly had a day off and, although she is not a huge cyclist, I convinced her to come along for a day of riding out of Nelson Bay up through the famous Mumbo Brush National Park. We took an early morning ferry to the Tea Gardens (yes, that's the name of the town), had some breakfast and hit the road for a 60KM ride. Not only did we have our own road with no cars, but we also had a guster of a tail wind that kept our pace at about 35KM/hour and still being able to have great conversations. On top of that all is the scenery of this region that is truly world class! Shelly was happy she made the decision to ride that day indeed as we passed trees of every hue, flowers, birds swimming and singing, fresh air, swamps and much more.

We hit the lake at Mungo Brush and savoured a seafood curry from Shelly's restaurant that put huge smiles on our face. A busload of friendly elderly woman kept us company as we ate our picnic and gander at the lake full of dozens of species of exotic birds.

We took a ferry across the lake to meet up with Shelly's friend Brandon who was going to give Shelly a ride back to Nelson Bay. Brandon and I got along right from the getgo and he hopped on the bike for a 10KM final burst to the highway where I was going to catch a bus up north a bit to get off the highway. We had some nice chats and giggles and finally arrived for a beer before they headed off into the sunset.

I had a late bus to catch to a town outside Stuarts Point where I was planning to connect with another contact of a friend I met in Tasmania named Dolphin, or Fin. When Fin and I met in Hobart I told him how I was falling in love with surfing and the ocean in general. With a name like Dolphin, you can guess that his parents like the ocean too. He told me his dad was a surf nut and loved having guests. So he and his wife also had a spare room near the surf ready for me.

My bus got in super late so after a chat with one of the local guys, I took his advice to pitch a tent at the local school as there was rain coming. He was right about the rain and right about the perfect spot to stay totally dry. The next day I packed up my gear and did a wet but totally beautiful ride to Stuarts Point. It was a 40KM ride through coastal forests with the cleanest air, steep hills through untouched forests, and cute little alternative towns scattered in between raw natural wonders.

I finally hit their house and was greeted by Andrew, Fin's jolly dad who was working on his 42 foot sailboat that he has been building by hand for the past 14 years. He and his wife Carrie are planning an around the world sailing trip so my free spirit was welcome on their beautiful 9 acre palace surrounded by pristine nature. I had my own room, which is always nice when you are staying with folks for a few days.

For the next few days I was the guest of this amazing family who treated me like their own son. I had the keys to their Saab car, a pick of Andrews surfboards, and put them both to use. I got to meet and surf with Andrew's childhood friend Rob who is a stellar guy. We spent almost a full day together enjoying wonderful Stuart's Point. I met and surfed with their other son Noah who showed me how far I have yet to go in my surf career. We ate homemade meals by Carrie with ingredients from her organic garden that were beyond words. Fresh fish, fine wine, good people, surrounded by nature, a great way to spend three days in Australia!

My last day in Stuarts Point I paid a visit to Jim, the father of the guest rider Tia I met a few weeks before. On the way I stopped by Noah's pad and met his wife and baby girl who was just a few months new. Noah decided to take a ride with me to Jim's place on the tandem so that was sweet!

Jim knew I was coming and invited me over for lunch. My plan was to have a meal and short visit and then ride the 45KM to the bus stop and head over to Byron Bay. Well, little did I know that he and his wife had prepared a 4 course meal of homemade dumplings and other exotic oriental dishes. I was not going to rush this process nor did I want to just to catch a silly bus. The meal was outstanding, the company was delightful, and I even left with a bag full of food and pickled chillies made by Jim.

By the time I began pedalling into the headwind back to Andrew and Carries pad I realized what time is was and how impossible it would be to ride 45KM in 75 minutes, especially with a gut full of rich food. I gave a call to Jim and asked for a lift. Having known me for only a few hours he showed up just as I finished breaking down my bike and gear and happily drove me and my gear to the bus stop. I made my bus with 10 minutes to spare and as I boarded the bus I almost cried in gratitude for the people I had met in the past few weeks. So much hospitality, love, and genuine caring.

Speaking of love and caring, I was now off to Byron Bay! I was told by every Aussie person I met that I would love the place and I had a good feeling about it. I opted to spend more days mountain biking and surfing with cool people in paradise instead of riding the crowded highway north. After seeing the traffic on the road I knew I made the right choice.

Now you may remember Nic, the Aussie guest rider in Cambodia. And you also may remember the Aussie guest rider from China and Tibet Jane. Get a load of this! Nic's good friend Katie lives near Byron Bay and he told her I was headed that way. Katie's friend Krista lives in Byron Bay and Krista she invited me to stay in the house she lives in owned by an Italian princess named Valentina. Krista did a four year bicycle trip herself a few years back so we were eager to meet. I arrived at the Byron bus station and Katie rode as my first of many Byron guest riders over to Krista's house. There I met a household of glorious woman who were singing, chanting and dancing together. I was in the right place indeed! And if that's not enough, it turns out that the owner of the house, Valentina, met my guest rider Jane in Thailand and they were great friends. Small world factor we'll call it.

I spent the next day with Andrew and Carie's daughter Amber and her cute 5 year old daughter Rubie. The three of us took the tandem to the Byron Market together. Amber rode behind me and the cute little Rubie had a pillow as her seat on the rack! Priceless! We sucked in some art, music and laughs while enjoying the warm Byron sunshine. In the evening I brought some flowers and ingredients for a nice meal for Ali, Krista and Valentina, the three ladies who I stayed with for three glorious days in paradise. I cooked them up a big meal and we all had a blast together sharing stories and pondering life's amazing gifts. Valentina is a Thai massage master so I was treated to her magic her amazing gift as well. I gave a few rides to the locals out on my Byron exploration missions and truly felt more at home in this town than any town on my entire tour. It's a magical place indeed.

On my last night in Byron I met a guy named Dave at a party who lives in Mullimbimby, the town where Nic's good friend Katie lives. Our plan was to hit up a full moon chanting session in Mullimbimby anyhow next day and I told Dave about Peace Pedalers. Again I was blown away with the magic of Byron as he shared with me that he owned the local bike shop in there and his partner Jim was from the San Francisco Bay Area of all places and loved to ride. Just so happens that my front hub was broken and in dire need of a good mechanic!

So the next day Krista came on as my guest rider to Mullimbimby and now we had another cool guy to meet! Krista and I took off towards the hills of Mullimbimby and the 40KM ride was truly perfect; taking us through, green forests, flowers blooming, gently rolling roads, and farms loaded with horses, cows, the works. And to have the wonderful company of one of the most funny and friendly women in the world was a blessing!

We rode into the charming town of Mullimbimby that afternoon gleaming from the stimulating conversation and breathtaking scenery. Our first stop was at True Wheel bike shop owned by Dave and fellow Bay Area mountain bike guru Jay. That day Jay and I invented the term "friends at first site". Within a few hours I had a key to his pad, a room to crash in his house, a new hub coming from Chris King, a top mechanic to build a new wheel, and plans to ride the famous single track trails that drew Jay from around the world to call this place home. Amazing!

After a relaxing and almost free game of golf at the Mullimbimby golf course I met up with Katie, Tom and Krista to hit up the full moon chanting event going on at the stunning home of Thomas and Matha. This house and the energy created by the loving souls present that night will never be forgotten. I met some of the most kind and loving people ever there I have ever met. My favorite by far was a pure, glowing gift of a woman named Kylie who, after a quick hello hug and a few words, was by my side the entire evening beside a roaring campfire under a full moon chanting and climbing trees (I did know the words to the chants so opted to play with the kids in the trees. Fun fun fun!)

Krista, Katie and I did an epic ride into the hills with the tandem and not only did I get to experience the company of two fantastic woman, but also the truly enchanting green scenery of this magical area of Australia. Kylie even met up with us for a while to have a go on the tandem and reconnect again. There is something special about Kylie and we were constantly drawn to each other. I spent an evening as a guest of Mac, Katie's relative who is a former liberal politician turned horse farmer with a vibrant character and heaps of wisdom. The pad included a pool, steam room, animals all over and genuinely cool people in every direction.

The day finally arrived where Jay could take me out on the local trails and show me the love. We meet up at his pad with his buddy Jason and off we go into the hills. Within minutes I knew why Jay decided to call this place home. It is beyond words. This mountain bike ride in his back yard is truly world class with epic single track and views in every direction that keep your jaw hanging open the entire ride. I could write a full page alone just about this one ride.

After some pampering at the spa with Valentina and an evening by the sea under the moon with my Aussie sweetheart Kylie it was time to embark on a weekend jaunt to connect with Scott and his crew in Brisbane. But since my hub had not arrived from Chris King in USA yet, I would have to come back again to Byron; a reality that I was actually quite excited about. More riding, more great people, more time with Kylie. Bring it on!

My bike was out of commission so I hopped a bus with minimal gear up to Brisbane and within a few hours I was at the college pad of a great friend Scott who I met in India and some other place we both can't seem to remember. Scott and I had some great memories together and were eager to create some more.

Scott had lined up a surf board for me to use, reserved us a campsite near Noosa National Park, and had some amazing friends to come along. We made the weekend warrior mission out of town Friday night with his buddy Hal, their two girlfriends Natalie and Teresa, camping gear, a cooler of goodies and boards for all on the roof. Off we went to surf the famous waves of Noosa and to experience one of Australia's most stunning natural wonders. Thanks Scott!

The weather and waves were nothing to brag about, but the positive attitudes and good vibes of the company made my trip to Noosa unforgettable. We surfed, cooked, camped, laughed, and bonded heaps over that wonderful weekend by the sea.

Weekends always go too fast and before we knew it we were back in Brisbane wishing we had more time to play together. I only had a few days left before my flight left to Bali and I decided to spend them in the arms of Kylie back around Mullimbimby and with the kind Byron crew where I would get one more taste of the spiritual hub of Australia.

After some food, music and a healthy night out with the Byron ladies I slept in my cute guest room at Valentina's amazing house in Byron. The next day I was on my way back up to Mullimbimby to meet up with Jay again about my hub and up to Kylie's pad on a farm. The hub was on the way the shipping company assured me, so I just let the thought go of having my bike ready for more riding with Kylie and the crew up there. Instead, Kylie and I explored the Mt. Warning area, did some camping, and sucked in massive amounts of romance around her cute little farm town called Mawollimbah (I think…)

The final hours were approaching and Jay had one more day of mountain biking he wanted to share with me. It was as epic as the first, but Jay took a nasty fall and had to head to the hospital for stitches in his knee. The hub showed up that same day and needed to be built into a wheel that night as I was leaving the following day. I felt bad as Jay was injured with stitches in his knee, but he was determined to build this wheel for me. He even had to do his own surgery on the bearings as King failed to send the hub with bearings. The final product was one of the most beautifully build wheels with a story and soul behind it! Thanks Jay!

Kylie and I finally had to say our good-byes, as well as all my special friends in the Byron area. This region touched my heart and soul deeper than anyplace on my travels. I knew then that I would be back and am happy to say I have made a return visit already into the arms of the lovely Kylie.

I made my morning mission back to Brisbane where I had to run a few errands before having my final meal in Australia with my boy Scott. The bike was packed, bags ready to go, and after a much appreciated ride to the airport from Scott I was off to Rome, but I just had to take advantage of the super cheap flight I found from my Bangkok layover to have one more taste of Asia before I left this region.

I was off Bali to reconnect with my great Indonesian friend Rama and test my surfing skills in Bali's yummy waters. Then would then head to Malaysia and Singapore before catching my flight to Rome and eventually Portugal where I sit finishing this newsletter in the warm summer sun.

After rereading this newsletter I am filled not only with endless gratitude for all the hospitality, love and caring that was tossed my way by the amazing Australian people. But I am also totally convinced that the way to live big is to give big. The law of Karma is totally clear to me now. I have seen too many examples in the last few years of this law working its magic.

Much love to you all! I’ll be back in USA in August and September. Hope to see many of you there!

Update: Back in USA now! Feel free to connect at 831 246 2668!

Jamie