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If you ever want to go "back in time", way back to the days
of the wild,
wild west with ox carts, old wooden houses and carriages, and good ole
fashioned farm living I suggest you head to Cambodia before the fast
paced
values of the west transform this beautiful, happy, peaceful country.
Even with the scars of the Khmer Rouge atrocities fresh in their memories,
you would never know it riding through the villages with smiles in every
direction.
Garryck and I went our own for most of our tame Thailand journeys and
we
were eager for some raw adventures when we met back up in Cambodia--off
the beaten track, dirt roads, making babies cry who never saw a western
face, mystery foods in every region, no spare parts for miles, fun sign
language sessions with the locals in the countryside--that kinda stuff.
I crossed the border about 10AM and I had no clue where Garryck was
going
to be staying, as there was no Internet in this border town. Our plan
was
just to meet up around the 8th of March in Kon Kong. So I was happy when
I crossed the border and met a young kid on a scooter inviting me to
stay
at his guesthouse who said knew Garryck was staying there too. So I just
followed him through the dusty 20KM ride to the border town of Kon Kong
where we would meet up. After a few minutes in town I bumped into Garryck
strolling back munching some dessert and we hugged in excitement to
explore Cambodia.
Our plan was to meet up with a special guest rider Kevin who was flying
from Japan to Cambodia to ride with us. We had 5 days to get to the
capital Phnom Phen so we just ate a few meals in this typical border
town
while watching some slimy westerners frolicking with their teenage
prostitutes--their biggest money maker besides marijuana sales-and were
eager to get outta town. Welcome to Cambodia!
Next morning we hoped a boat to Sousiville where we would begin our
tour
to Phnom Phen. We arrived in the mid afternoon and decided to begin the
ride the next day as it was super hot and we had some bike maintenance
to
do before hitting the road again. We finally got sorted and found two
cool Cambodian guys to come for a ride into down town with us just as
the
rain decided to fall. Both of them spoke decent English and we were
having a blast with these fellas just getting soaked and checking out
the
scenery. We hit the markets together and just giggled like kids as we
rode the streets of Sousvillle making all the locals laugh as we rode
by.
Cambodia had a great feel once you got away from the border town and
the
tandems were a hit.
The rain mellowed out and after a short trip to downtown we came back
to
the hotel area and gave about 10 rides to all the local Cambodian guys
and
gals. It was a blast to hear the giggles and the screams for help in
their local Khmer language as we ripped around our loop. Good fun!
After a nice night sleep we got a very late start due to the fact that
it
was raining cats and dogs at our 5AM wakeup call and we did not want
to
start in the dark with rain hammering on us on day one. So we did not
get in the saddle till about 8AM or so. We had a tourist breakfast first
and bid farewell to Garryck's temporary pet lizard Rich. We hit the road
towards Kampot that started with some traffic filled hills that quickly
got the sweat started and legs burning. But soon enough we were back
on
the flats and feeling strong. After about 10km we were fully in the
countryside of Cambodia loving life. We had some good conversations of
just how grateful we were to be where we were at that moment--A big open
valley with spread out farms, happy people, a cool breeze and overcast
skies keeping our temperatures under control, spinning effortlessly into
a
small headwind. It was a great day to be alive!
Oh, our first day of touring in Cambodia! What a day! In just one day
Cambodia entered my favorite touring country list. The roads were almost
void of traffic, as most folks can't afford cars. The scenery was
fantastic and so alive with the passing of villages and the people
greeting us with more "hellos" and the Khmer version of hello, "Susadai"
than we could ever imagine. The houses are almost all on stilts; many
of
them thatch houses, some basic wood with a unique style and cool colors
of
light blue, gray and neat trims. The families chill out in the shade
usually either under the house with hammocks stung out or in "hammock
chill out huts" near the road. Kids are all over the place, mostly
naked,
always smiling and eager to greet us were in every direction. Motorcycles
and cars slow down to say hi, laugh, and blast us with smile after smile.
The riding here is almost all flat so you can just spin around and check
out the sites at an fast average speed of about 22 kph (about 14 mph).
Cambodia is the first country we encountered what we now call the
"
Two-Pump-Chump". These are guys who decide they want to come on
the back
of our bikes and do some riding and then pedal about two pumps and jump
off laughing. We did find a few folks to hop on and ride 5-10 KM or so,
but we must have ran into half dozen of these "Two-Pump-Chumps".
So we
got so excited we actually missed our turnoff and went 20KM too far on
the
wrong road. So with the backtrack of 40KM it made our first day in
Cambodia our longest day touring ever of over 140 KM.
We finally made it the full 140 KM and the day continued to amaze us
with
just how awesome Cambodia is. The nature is unforgettable. The trees
are
plentiful and diverse, as are the bushes and flowers in the different
yards of these cool, simple houses. Its funny how in such basic, simple
living conditions of just farming, simple houses, not much to do...the
people were so friendly and loving.
We arrived in Kampot and met a cool kid on a bike who led us to the
guesthouse called Malloy Chanda where we landed a very nice room for
5
bucks and got cleaned up and tossed the bikes into single mode mountain
bikes to get ready for the next day's adventure into Bokor National Park.
We had a nice meal that evening at the hotel, another shower, and then
got
a nice night sleep to wake up super early for some yoga and relaxation.
We had a nice breakfast while they loaded our bikes onto the pickup
truck
that would be bringing our bikes up over 1000 meters to the top of the
park. From the peak we followed a guide to a small jungle trail where
we
powered past the hiking group and did an UNFORGETTABLE single track ride
that was AMAZING! If you like single track riding this is the place for
you! The memory will be in my head for a long time indeed as we were
flying through the jungle with vines, bushes, trees, mud, roots, branches,
logs, curves, burms and drop-offs. Amazing fun! We finally made it to
the waterfall and relaxed and waited for our group that never came with
our lunch-and we were starving!
We chased down the picnic group and luckily they were up at the epic
spot
overlooking the Gulf of Thailand way above the Coast of Cambodia at the
old casino eating. We were able to grind a nice meal and check out the
casino of the 1970's built by the French. We then were able to enjoy
one
phenomenal jungle downhill run of 20KM and 1000M. It was a blast. It's
so nice to be in good shape and be able to hammer with all our might
the
downhill at like 40 km/hr. We zipped by locals hunting and monks walking
with huge smiles on our faces. Great times! We had the helmet cam going
off and the sights with the trees and bushes going by at mach speed,
jumping the trails, and just being kids again.
That night we got back and relaxed a bit. I met back up with a guy Darren
that I met on the truck up to the downhill run and after a bit of talking
he accepted our invitation to ride to Phnom Phen with us. I was stoked
to
have our first passenger from England with us. I built the bike back
up
to tandem mode, took some boys on a ride, and then enjoyed a nice meal
on
the river with Dan from the US and Darren and GH. Dan also was biking
and
Garryck hooked him up with some riding shorts and jersey for his trip,
as
he had none.
The next morning we got a bit of a late start to the 90KM ride to Takeo,
and we were all in great spirits. The scenery continued to deliver a
perfect blend of nature and culture, smiling faces, "hello" calls,
trees,
small hills, and farm life. It was like being back in time to the 1950's;
not much has changed in Cambodia. It was at about 30KM that we saw a
lone
lady cyclist on the road visiting the local kids. She had red hair, a
lot
like our good friend Jane's, a huge smile, and was joking and
photographing the kids. We met and her name is Caroline from the French
part of Switzerland. She was riding slow and did not care much about
the
pace. She was far more interested in the people and enjoying all Cambodia
had to offer. We liked her right away.
We all rode together for a while and then she would fall behind and
we
leap frogged each other for about 50 km or so until we all joined up
for a
nice lunch. After our lunch we made a wrong turn again but luckily saw
two other cycle touring folks across the street that had already done
20KM
backtracking for also missing the turn. So turns out that we ended up
meeting 5 other cycle touring folks that day! We all rode the 10KM to
Takeo together at a slow and mellow pace laughing and sharing stories
of
life on bikes in Asia and the rest of the world. The temperature had
chilled out and, although Darren's butt was hurting tons, we were all
in
great spirits. Darren is a 25 year old or so guy from the UK who is a
computer programmer ready for a year off. This was his first cycle tour.
Just like most of us out traveling, he realized that the "work world" was
not going anywhere and he decided to take some time to see the world
before getting too serious about life. He had a great sense of humor
and
was a pleasure to be riding with.
We arrived at the hotel and I did some yoga before we all headed out
to a
mellow dinner of pretty much crap food, but great company near the lake
followed by some dessert. Cambodia is not famous for the food, but the
sights are world class indeed. I shared a smoothie the cutest 3-year-old
girl ever and then we all hit the hay early to hit the road by 6 and
avoid
the afternoon heat to Phnom Phen.
After a nice sleep I woke up Darren and Caroline who were sharing a
room.
We quickly got the bikes loaded up and we were off and rolling by 6AM
with
a quick stop for breakfast of tea and bread. Caroline was riding quickly
today and we were able to make great time. We were flying and by 9AM
we
were at about 60KM mark or so for a nice brunch. It was warming up, but
we were all happy as we were just 20Km away or so and would likely miss
the peak heat. Caroline joined me on the tandem at times and we gave
Darren a chance to ride a fully loaded single touring bike. He liked
it
and I'm sure he's hooked to bike touring. Turns out Caroline she has
been riding by herself since Indonesia and is now up here in Cambodia
still going for 7 months. She's a social worker in Switzerland with a
great spirit and hilarious sense of humor with her French accent and
appreciation for every moment of life.
We finally made it to Phnom Phen and it was a glorious ride. We rolled
into the capital of Phnom Phen with a Cambodian guest rider that we met
about 10KM out of town. He was a neat kid of about 15 years old or so
who
rode with Garryck and helped us navigate the city streets and point out
a
few sights. He had a blast and it's always great to ride with the locals.
We arrived in Phnom Phen and were eager to snap a photo. Turns out
Caroline met this wild Aussie guy named Nic a few towns back and there
he
was ready to be our photographer. After a few seconds of small talk Nic
then became our next guest rider to join us up to Siem Riep! So we
arrived with intention of meeting up with the American guy we met in
Japan
named Kevin to be Garryck's guest rider and now we had Nic from Australia.
After 48 hours in Phnom Phen we'd be off to Siem Riep. But we were both
in need of some time to rest, especially Garryck, who had not had a
serious rest since his 24-hour mountain bike race.
So I took the time in Phnom Phen to walk the streets, do some shopping,
and check out the sights. The main attraction in Phnom Phen is,
depressingly enough, the torture center S21 just out of town. I went
there with Caroline and Kevin and the horrifying facts of the murders
of
Poi Pot of 2 million Cambodians in 1975-77 was put right in front of
me.
And the visit to the mass graves of the Killing Fields topped of the
horror. It was pretty depressing to see how one man's horrible vision
for
the future of his country could result in such murder and torture.
All in all, I liked Phnom Phen though. Garryck got stomach sickness
pretty bad so he was in bed most of the time but this was his second
visit
so no major loss. It was a bigger city, but did not smell and was not
too
polluted.
The 5 of us left towards Siem Riep on Monday and had a nice ride 90
km to
the town of Kompang Channang. We had a fast tail wind and got an early
6AM start so we were super surprised to arrive in just 4 hours. The
sights were awesome as always. The departure included a wonderful sunrise
over the Mekong River and the little villages and farming villages along
the way continued to amaze us with the simple way of life of the
Cambodians that still manages to bring them genuine smiles and happiness.
Nic and I had great times chatting. He's a 30-year-old Aussie guy who
really is one of the most interesting guys I've ever met. He is a real
artist as a musician with guitar, drums, vocals, and also writing,
painting, poetry and more. He's all about great stories of his
environmental struggles-tying himself to trees to save the forest, big
protests naked, just to name a few--with the governments and his spiritual
lessons he tries to share with the world. He's an inspirational guy and
a
blast to have a guest rider indeed. Not to mention the fact that he had
strong legs and a very light load of a day pack so we were movin!
Kevin only had a few days in Cambodia so we decided to take a boat to
Siem
Riep the next morning and do our riding around the famous temples of
Angkor Wat. We managed to get on the road to ride 15KM to Siem Riep
through true Cambodian poverty like no other we have ever seen. Folks
were living in these one-room shacks of straw with trash all around them.
Many of them were families of 5 or more. But, they still seemed happier
than many of our wealthy folks back in the states. So it did not bother
me too much. These observations of the happiness of these "poor" people
are teaching us some interesting lessons indeed in Cambodia.
It was a short but stifling hot ride to Siem Riep. We arrived and landed
a pad at the Fresh Air guesthouse for a dollar each and got ready to
settle into 5 days of exploring the world famous Angkor Wat temples.
Garryck had already done the temple tour but he wanted to do one full
day
with Kevin and the boys so we were up at about 4AM and watched the sun
come up over Angkor Wat. We stayed in the temple area for 16 hours. I
must say that the sights of Angkor Wat are among the most stunning sights
I've ever seen. The unique carvings, style, history, mystery--all really
blew our minds. Not only were the temples amazing but also the natural
wonders abound in every direction of the site. And to top it off, there
are single track mountain bike trails all over the place that we rode
at
top speed on the unloaded tandem that delivered a nice dose of adrenaline
to our already awe struck state.
Another day Caroline, Nic and I adventured to more temples and rode
about
80 km. Most of the day was spent in the saddle checking out the villages
around the temples and boy was it amazing. Again, we were blown away
by
the beauty and positivity of Cambodia.
At the same time we were out exploring temples and peacefully enjoying
a
day in the countryside George Bush was busy getting the ball rolling
on
the war with Iraq. Even thousands of miles away from the negative energy
a war produces in the world we were all feeling it. It sucked the energy
right out of us. All we could "do" from where we were was turn
up the
peace and love locally so that's what we did by sending smiles, positive
energy, and genuine openness to everyone we encountered.
I had one day off in Siem Riep before we started touring again. We made
a
trip to the local orphanage to play with all the kids. We had a super
fun
time as we always do at the orphanage, and we also watched them practicing
their skit of traditional Khmer dancing. It was wonderful to connect
with
such young, playful, innocent souls. We set the record of 7 people on
the
tandem too!
We were up super early the next morning to get back on the road towards
the north eastern part of Cambodia where we wanted to do a mountain bike
expedition in the hills around Ban Lung.
So we took off at about 5AM and Caroline came out of bed to say goodbye
to
everyone.
We pedaled off into the cool night to avoid the heat of the day. We knew
this route had a headwind in the day and the heat was big. So it was
nice
in the morning to have cool air, flat roads, no headwind, and a slowly
rising sun cruising at a fast pace with my strong Aussie rider Nic. Nic
and I had grown close together as well and shared a lot together.
So the road started nice but we knew it was too good to last as we were
told of the ugly roads ahead. And in about 20KM or so we were on the
dusty, dirty, under construction road that was not so bad, but not great
either. In the early morning it was a piece of cake, but as the day grew
on it got super dusty with other cars and motorcycles. But the scenery
was nice and we passed through many villages and the great vibes of the
Cambodians was still ringing true.
We ended up calling it a day at about 10:30AM after about 65KM or so.
We
found a great guesthouse for 2 bucks each and it had a huge floor that
was
perfect for a nice yoga session. After yoga Nic and I hit the market
for
a while for some fruit and playing with the locals, taking photos, and
having fun. It was pretty darn hot so we made it back real soon for some
lunch under the fan of our guesthouse. After lunch we rested up and all
met up for a stroll of the town and some dinner. We found a great
restaurant in this cute town where a local schoolteacher spoke English
and
was able to help us create a nice vegetarian meal of yummy noodles and
veggies. We met up with 3 Dutch cyclists on their way to Phnom Phen who
were super sun burned from leaving too late and riding in the mid day
sun.
We had a blast at dinner sharing stories and we told them they were
welcome to join us at 5AM but they were not into the morning session.
So we headed back got into bed early as usual, about 8PM and got a super
night sleep and woke up bright and early at 5AM and were pedaling down
the
dirty, bump roads in the dark by 5:30. I had to use my high power lights
to show the way for about 45 minutes until the sun's light showed us
the
way on the tricky sandy road that took both of us down a few times. It's
some thick stuff. We finally make it about 30KM out of town or so and
stop for some yummy new kind of food in the beautiful Cambodian
countryside. This woman cooked up thin egg crapes and filed them with
lettuce and bean sprouts with yummy sauce wrapped in banana leaves. They
were out of this world. We each mowed a few of those as her first early
morning customers as the crowd of villages came to watch what could have
been their first tourists visit this pretty remote village. At least
we
were the first folks on two tandems...
Just as we got ready to roll out and keep riding Garryck discovers that
he
lost his precious OR hat with the custom made PP patch on it. He really
wants to get it back but we all know we have an 85 KM day and have to
keep
moving or we'll get caught in the mid day heat. After trying to find
a
motorbike deemed unsuccessful, he decides to go solo riding back for
the
hat and meet up with us in the next town. I thought he should just leave
it be, but he wanted to search for it. So off he went and Nic and I rode
on. We were not going to wait 2 or 3 hours for him to get his hat and
end
up riding in the searing heat. He was cool with it.
So off Nic and I rode and the vibe was alive. He and I were both feeling
strong and the sights were especially great this day. Also, the weather
was fantastic with a looming storm dropping a few sprinkles here and
there
but never dumping anything. It kept the heat from ever really picking
up
and that was a treat. The sights were amazing as always with towns that
really made us feel like we went back in time hundreds of years.
Literally there were times when every house was an old western movies
style, with folks only on horses or ox carts with wooden wheels and
spokes, no sounds, no electricity, no motors; just back in time. Such
a
treat. And to see folks so smiling in this simplicity keeps adding to
my
theory that "less is more". After a food stop we put on some
great tunes
and we were grooving so hard I had chills down my spine. I used the
double headphone splitter and we cranked up the Spearhead as we pedaled
at
full speed of about 25, smiles on or faces, perfect temperature, rolling
on a dirt road through villages and farm land with all the animals, kids,
hellos, "Susadie" calls, giggles and laughs from the tandem
sight. The
love was just flowing. I sent it out in every wave to every persons and
I
really got it back. It was unforgettable touring. We stopped often at
all the stands to eat the mystery treats of gummy sweets, sugar cane
juice, fruit shakes, and other treats the locals got a kick watching
us
eat. I was diggin it!
We finally made it to the town and were looking for this one cheap
guesthouse where I then saw Garryck ahead of us somehow! Turns out that
as he was riding back to find his lost hat he got caught in a huge
rainstorm that turned those thick dusty roads into deep mud. He could
not
even push his bike much less ride it. You gotta see the photos! He
luckily ran into some guy with a pickup truck who gave him a ride up
to
the town where we met up with him and found a room at what turned out
to
be a hotel for many prostitutes. We all got our own room for 2 bucks
each
and after a quick lunch we took some nice naps and then woke up to watch
the sun setting on this cool Cambodian town.
After a nice dinner of those same egg and bean sprout yummy treats we
had
some dessert and hit the hay early for another day of touring the next
day. We woke up to the sound of rain falling fast and furious and decided
we could not ride in the dark so waited it out. It slowed down a it,
but
with the dirt roads ahead we did not want to ride over 100KM on dicey
mud
where we were going to be falling and getting all muddy, if we were able
to ride at all on those horrible roads. So we took a bus for 3 bucks
each
all the way to Kompong Chom packed way into the back of this bus, tandems
on the roof, and we made it safe and sound at the Mekong river at about
11AM.
It was then time for Nic to go his own way. He was low on cash and
although he wanted to head up north with us, he knew he would only have
to
backtrack to Phnom Phen. It was sad to see him go as we all shared some
amazing times together.
We made it to the riverside town of Kratie at sunset where we shared
a
coconut watching the sunset on the stairs with a gal from Israel while
Garryck snapped photos of the beautiful scenery. Kratie is a cute town
with a fun market where we grabbed some food and sat outside in the
sprinkling skies before we hit the hay to get ready to make our way even
further northeast to Ban Lung where we planned to do some serious mountain
biking.
The next morning I got up super early and hit up the river dolphins
in the
Mekong River. These dolphins are almost extinct now due to over-fishing
and there is a protected area where you can sit on a boat in the quiet
of
the morning and all you hear are dozens of fresh water dolphins surfacing
for air at sunrise. An unforgettable experience!
Our days were running low in Cambodia and we wanted as many as possible
mountain biking so I proposed a power pickup truck teleport journey to
cut
out 4 days of deserted touring and add those days to mountain biking
total
to Garryck and he was in. So we took a truly hellish 9-hour pickup truck
ride to Ban Lung. We were crammed 8 people in the cab and about 20 folks
in back with bikes, chickens, kids, grain, and gear--you name it. All
on
south East Asia's very worst roads; if you can call what we were on roads.
The ultimate practice of patience and tolerance!
All the pain was worth it when we arrived in Ban Lung and brought the
bikes into single mountain bike mode and rode over to a 700,000 year
old
crater lake surrounded by literally endless single track mountain bike
trails used by the farmers and hill tribe folks in the area. So we have
a
crystal clear lake to cool down in the mid day sun, high altitude
temperatures, endless riding, cool locals--this is living!
The first day was spent mostly chilling out in my hammock and doing
a few
loops of the lakeside single track. I got struck with stomach problems
that night and next morning I was only able to do a few hours of mountain
biking. But after some rest Garryck and were able to strap the high power
bike lights on by Lights and Motion and hit the trails under the precious
stars of Ban Lung. The temperature was cool, the trails surrounded by
amber coals of the burn season, and all we saw was the dust from each
other's tires and the smiles at each rest stop. Night riding in Cambodia!
Outta sight!
Next day I met a local kid Lek who worked at the hotel. He is 20 years
old and he wanted to do some tandem mountain biking with me. So after
our
morning session of single track riding and swimming in the afternoon,
we
went out at full speed on the tandem into his tiny village and had the
time of our lives on wicked fun single track. Words can't describe the
feeling of riding with a local Cambodian guy screaming and laughing around
snaking downhill single track and ending it with a swim together.
Amazing.
The next day Garryck went out solo as I rested some more and in the
afternoon Lek took us out to his parent farm and to the picturesque rubber
tree plantations and waterfalls. We ate lunch with Lek's mom in his
farmhouse that Lek and his dad built. Hey had pigs, chickens, and other
animals running around and grew cashew nuts and a few other local fruits.
It was fascinating to see how his family lived and how content they were
to live with the basics.
Garryck was all full of energy and went off to find more single track
while Lek and I took the tandem at an easy pace to the lake. I relaxed
there with him and eventually fell asleep and woke up around sunset.
As I
was on my way back I met an American guy Travis who loves to mountain
bike
so I invited him to take this really technical single-track trail back
to
the hotel we were staying at. He was delighted and as we were flying
down
at full speed life was treating us super good. But then all hell broke
lose with the bike as in one instance we got a flat tire, a broken chain,
and a broken rear derailleur! The biggest "blow out" I have
ever had.
But tandem mountain biking on rowdy single track can do that to a bike.
I
kept my cool like a good Yogi-Binks should, as I pushed the bike the
other
way and luckily found a guy to help me get her rolling again in single
speed and I spun at sunset back to the hotel feeling just fine!
On top of the blow out, our turn of luck kept it's course as it looks
like
that food at Lek's house was the nail in our coffin as both Garryck and
I
become very ill that evening. Oh well, live and learn. We could not get
on the truck down the next day and riding with no derailleur was out
of
the question so we spent another day just sleeping, reading and writing
before we finally made our way down to Stung Treng where we would make
our
way to the Laos border.
Luckily Travis booked our own truck back down for a group of tourists
and
it was a comfortable ride. My first line of business was to try to fix
my
derailleur. Luckily SRAM makes good stuff and we were able to show a
guy
the broken part and they duplicated the part for 5 bucks and we rigged
up
the derailleur with a bungee cord to help the tweaked spring and now
it
works like a charm. So we were all set. Travis wanted to come along to
the border but turns out he is packing a 60 pound backpack that would
be
just too much on the rowdy roads we were planning on taking 62 KM to
the
border. So we decided to meet him in Laos and do some riding where we
can
leave his backpack in a guesthouse.
So our last day in Cambodia we planned to get an early start and head
to
the border at 5AM but turns out that we needed to wait until 6:30 to
catch
a boat across a river meaning a realistic 7AM start. On top of that,
everyone told us the road was almost never used as the river was the
main
route to the border for all traffic and that we would be hating life
on
the barren road. So in light of my fragile bike, our very tender
stomachs, the heat rising at 8AM, and the advice of the locals we hopped
on a boat for 5 bucks and took the easy way to Laos by boat.
We arrived at the border about 11:30 where we avoided the fraudulent
2
dollar exit stamp fee with some creative stories by Garryck and myself
and
crossed the river to the wonderful country of Laos in the peak of the
Mekong Valley heat-topping over 110 degrees, and rode our way to our
riverside guesthouse.
The memories of Cambodia will forever be in our hearts, and the lessons
from just "being" there certainly changed the way I look at
life. I
highly recommend a trip if you are ready for some real adventure! Laos
newsletter is on the way!
This is Jamie signing off from Los Angeles where I'm visiting my best
buddy Big Rich Nason and getting ready for a fun summer of work and play
in sunny California! I'll be living in San Francisco all summer getting
ready for our next adventures this fall to Malaysia, Indonesia, New
Zealand and Australia then off to Europe. Feel free to get in touch at
415 377 9022.
Over and out!
Jamie & Garryck
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